After a year of planning our Everest Base Camp trek, we were finally en route to Nepal to turn a long-held dream into reality. Our first stop: Kathmandu — the bustling, vibrant capital that offers a sensory overload in the best possible way and is well worth exploring before heading into the mountains.
Following a long, chaotic journey from Brisbane (complete with delays in Singapore and a dramatic electric storm before landing), we arrived in Kathmandu late at night. Stepping out of the airport was like diving headfirst into organized chaos — honking horns, people weaving through traffic in all directions, and even a car backing into ours, sparking an animated shouting match in Nepali.
We had two full days in the city before flying into the Himalayas, and we made the most of it — soaking up rich culture, marveling at ancient architecture, and laughing at cheeky monkeys doing what monkeys do best.
Day 1: Exploring the Ancient Kingdoms of Kathmandu
Morning – Patan (Lalitpur): A City of Art and Kings
Jet lag hit hard, and forgetting to close the blinds didn’t help — we were up at 5:30 am, woken by sunlight blazing through the room and the unmistakable sound of… roosters. In the middle of the city. Only in Asia!
We started the day with breakfast on the rooftop of our hotel, The Woodapple Hotel and Spa in Thamel. With the sun rising over Kathmandu and a couple of much-needed coffees in hand, we were ready to dive into Nepali culture. Our guide met us after breakfast and took us to the ancient city of Patan, also known as Lalitpur, one of the three original royal cities of the Kathmandu Valley. Patan is a dream for lovers of history and architecture — temples on every corner, intricate stone and wood carvings, and beautifully preserved palaces. The detail in the windows and doors was mind-blowing. Every alleyway seemed to hide another artistic gem or peaceful courtyard.
Afternoon – Bhaktapur: Stepping Back in Time
After refueling with a traditional Nepali Thali set and a well-earned local beer, we headed to Bhaktapur, another of the ancient kingdoms in the valley.
Bhaktapur feels like stepping into a living museum. With its car-free cobbled streets, towering temples, and perfectly preserved medieval architecture, it’s easy to lose track of time. The carvings were again incredible — every beam, doorframe, and lintel seemed like a work of art. We browsed through charming little shops selling handmade pottery, woven scarves, and beautiful souvenirs that were hard to resist. Getting back to the hotel? Let’s just say 20 km takes a lot longer when you’re battling Kathmandu traffic. Horns everywhere, cars everywhere… and somehow it all works (kind of!). Safe to say I’ll never whinge about traffic at home again!
Evening – Dinner with a View
We celebrated Simon’s birthday with drinks and dinner at the hotel’s rooftop bar, soaking in a breathtaking sunset over the city. As the sun dipped below the horizon, Kathmandu slowly lit up beneath us — a magical end to a big day. Exhausted but happy, we called it an early night to be ready for another early start the next morning.
Day 2 – Temples, Stupas & Last-Minute Prep
Morning – Monkeys and open-air cremation
We started the day under grey, rainy skies with a visit to Swayambhunath, better known as the Monkey Temple. Despite the drizzle, the cheeky monkeys were out in full force, climbing railings, sneaking food, and entertaining us with their antics. There were also plenty of adorable dogs lounging around the temple grounds. The views from the top are usually spectacular, but unfortunately, the cloud cover blocked any sight of the Himalayas.
Next, we headed to Kathmandu Durbar Square, the historic heart of the old city. Even in overcast weather, it was striking. A blend of ancient temples, regal courtyards, and intricately carved wooden architecture. The square tells stories of Nepal’s royal past, and wandering through its narrow alleys and sacred spaces felt like stepping back in time.
From there, we made our way to Pashupatinath Temple, Nepal’s most sacred Hindu temple and the site of open-air cremations along the Bagmati River. Our guide hesitated, unsure whether we’d be up for it, but having seen similar rituals in Varanasi, we were prepared. It was emotional, confronting, and deeply spiritual — not for everyone, but a powerful and unforgettable experience.
Afternoon – stupa and last-minute shopping/packing
We found a rooftop restaurant overlooking the beautiful Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest and most sacred stupas in the world. We tucked into a plate of delicious momos, traditional Nepali dumplings, and they absolutely hit the spot. Soft, flavourful, and perfectly spiced, they’re a must-try if you’re visiting Nepal.
Just after lunch, the clouds finally parted. Just on time for our exploration of the stupa itself. As the prayer flags fluttered in the sunshine, the golden dome glowed, and we soaked in the peaceful atmosphere. Even with the crowds, Boudhanath felt serene and full of spiritual energy — a definite highlight.
Back in Thamel, we squeezed in some last-minute shopping for trekking gear. With so many shops, it’s so hard not to go overboard! Once we collected our duffel bags, sleeping bags, and down jackets from our trekking company, the packing chaos began. Cue panic: our bags were each about 2 kilos overweight. Thankfully, our trekking company assured us that a few extra kilos wouldn’t be a problem. Crisis averted.
Evening – Early night ahead
We wrapped up the day with a quick dinner in Thamel, watching the city sparkle under the night sky. With alarms set for 12:30 a.m., we didn’t linger long — it was time to rest up before heading to Ramechhap Airport for our flight into the Himalayas. The true adventure was just beginning.
Conclusion: From City Chaos to Mountain Calm
Our whirlwind 48 hours in Kathmandu were a sensory overload, full of colour, history, chaos, charm, and culture. From dodging traffic to exploring sacred temples and ancient kingdoms, the city gave us a vivid and unforgettable welcome to Nepal. Kathmandu dazzled us with its energy, spirit, and unexpected moments (monkeys, momo feasts, and packing panic included!).
But now, it was time to trade the bustling streets for the stillness of the Himalayas. Bags packed (just slightly overweight), alarms set, and hearts full of excitement — we were finally ready to begin the adventure we’d spent over a year planning. The trek to Everest Base Camp was about to begin, and we had no idea just how much it would challenge and change us.
Where to Stay in Kathmandu?
If you’re visiting Kathmandu, Thamel is the perfect place to stay. It’s the heart of the city’s tourist district, packed with lively restaurants, rooftop bars, shops, and trekking gear stores — everything you need before heading into the mountains. We stayed at The Woodapple Hotel and Spa, a modern and comfortable spot tucked away just enough to escape the noise, but still within easy walking distance to all the action. With warm hospitality, a great rooftop view, and a hearty breakfast, it made for a great base to explore the city.
For more options, here’s a mix of budget, mid-range, and high-end hotel options in Thamel, Kathmandu — something for every type of traveler:
Budget (Under $30 USD per night)
- Clean, simple rooms with friendly service and great value for money.
- Quiet location yet central.
- Great for backpackers and budget trekkers.
- Cozy vibe in a historic building.
- Basic but comfortable, with helpful staff.
- Close to restaurants and shops.
Mid-Range ($30–$80 USD per night)
1. The Address Kathmandu Hotel
- Stylish and modern, with a great location right in Thamel.
- Good breakfast and rooftop views.
- Comfortable rooms and solid service.
- Charming heritage hotel with a peaceful courtyard garden.
- Warm hospitality and beautiful décor.
- Feels like an oasis in the middle of Thamel.
High-End ($80+ USD per night)
- International standard with sleek design and excellent amenities.
- Rooftop pool, gym, and lively bar.
- Great for those who want modern comforts.
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