Carnarvon Gorge has been on our “one-day” list for way too long. You know those places that always sound amazing, but are just far enough away to make you say, “Maybe next year”? Well, this was that place but no longer.
At about 9 hours’ drive from the Sunshine Coast/Brisbane, it’s not your average weekend getaway, but that’s also part of its charm. Tucked away in the Southern Queensland Outback, it’s remote, peaceful, and wildly beautiful. There are barely any phone signal, no crowds, just red cliffs, rainforest pockets, and ancient Aboriginal rock art.
After years of talking about it, we finally grabbed a long weekend, added a couple of annual leave days, and made the trek. And wow, it was absolutely worth it.
A Place with Deep History
Carnarvon Gorge holds deep cultural significance for the Bidjara and Karingal people, the Traditional Custodians of the land. As you walk through the gorge, you’re surrounded by towering sandstone cliffs, ancient rock art, lush ferns, and tranquil creeks. It’s one of those rare places where you feel the history and nature blending together.
Day 1 – The Main Gorge Track Adventure
We kicked things off with the Main Gorge Track, hiking straight out to Big Bend Camp before returning back via the side trails. In total, it was close to 25 km return with 18 creek crossings (yes, we counted every single one). It was a full-day effort with an early start, tired legs, and a well-earned picnic at Big Bend.
The trail meanders past several incredible side tracks, each with its own personality. You can tackle them all in one day if your legs are feeling brave or spread them out over two days. We managed to do them all except Moss Garden (saved for day two) and Ward’s Canyon was unfortunately closed due to storm damage.
Tip: Bring hiking poles if you’re a bit unsteady, those creek crossings can get slippery!
Boowinda Gorge
Just a few minutes before Big Bend, this narrow sandstone gorge feels like a secret canyon carved by time. The tall, twisting walls create an echo chamber of birds and footsteps. A cool, quiet contrast to the open gorge outside. It’s a photographer’s dream and a great spot to catch your breath before turning back.
Cathedral Cave
A huge natural amphitheatre within the gorge, Cathedral Cave is decorated with ancient Aboriginal rock engravings and stencils that tell stories thousands of years old. It’s both humbling and fascinating, like walking through an open-air museum that nature and culture built together.
The Art Gallery
One of the most significant Aboriginal art sites in Queensland, the Art Gallery showcases over 2,000 individual motifs, including hand stencils, boomerangs, and nets. Standing there, surrounded by vivid red and white rock art, it’s impossible not to feel a sense of awe.
The Amphitheatre
Hidden behind a narrow crack in the rock, you climb a ladder (yes, an actual ladder!) and suddenly step into a natural “room” of stone walls soaring above you. It’s like nature’s air-conditioned concert hall, cool, echoey, and absolutely spectacular.
Day 2 – Moss Garden & Platypus Spotting
After our marathon hike the day before, Moss Garden Track (7 km return) felt like a gentle treat. This lush little pocket of green is like stepping into another world, moss-covered walls, trickling waterfalls, and a refreshing coolness.
The afternoon was dedicated to some well-earned relaxation by the pool, followed by a stroll along the Nature Trail (a 1.5 kms loop) where we finally spotted our first-ever platypus in the wild! Only took 20 years of living in Australia… totally worth the wait.
Day 3 – Sunrise & Secret Gorges
Boolimba Bluff
If there’s one hike you have to set an early alarm for, it’s Boolimba Bluff and trust me, it’s worth every yawn. We left about 1 hour and 20 minutes before sunrise, headlamps on to tackle the almost 1,000 steps.
The climb winds steeply through rocky switchbacks before opening up to a lookout that makes every bit of effort worthwhile. As the first light spills over the gorge, the sandstone cliffs glow in shades of gold and pink. It’s one of those moments you just stand there quietly, forgetting about the climb (and your burning calves).
It’s a serious workout before breakfast but absolutely breathtaking, quite literally! The views stretch across the gorge and the surrounding ranges, giving you a true sense of how vast and untouched Carnarvon is. This was easily one of the highlights of our entire trip.
Mickey Creek Gorge
A few kilometres before the Visitor Centre lies Mickey Creek Gorge, an easy yet adventurous 3 km return walk that leads into narrow canyons draped in moss. If you keep going past the official track, you can scramble further along the rocks like a true explorer. Not difficult, but concentration is key as one slip and you could hurt yourself!
The Rock Pool
When the Outback sun starts to bite, The Rock Pool is your best friend. Just before the park entrance, it’s the only designated swimming spot in Carnarvon Gorge. Expect refreshing (aka freezing) water, some warm patches, and lots of happy hikers cooling off. Don’t skip it!
Where to Stay in Carnarvon Gorge?
We stayed at the Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge — and absolutely loved it. Think glamping tents, visiting wildlife, a pool, and a restaurant when you’re too tired to cook (which will happen). There are also two camp kitchens for DIY meals, and it’s the closest accommodation to the trailhead.
Other great options include the nearby Big4, Sandstone Park and the National Park campsite, which opens seasonally for the budget-friendly campers.
When to go to Carnarvon Gorge?
Carnarvon Gorge gets hot and I mean melt-your-hiking-boots hot. In summer, some trails close due to extreme heat. The best time to visit is March to mid-October, when the weather is cooler and the hikes are open.
For serious hikers, there’s also the Battleship Spur multi-day hike, offering remote camping and next-level views. Perfect if you’re up for a real Outback adventure.
Final Thoughts
Carnarvon Gorge isn’t the easiest place to get to but that’s exactly why it’s so special. The isolation, the ancient stories etched into the rock, and the jaw-dropping landscapes make it one of Queensland’s true treasures.
After three days of hiking, swimming, and gawking at cliffs, we can confirm: it’s worth every kilometre of that 9-hour drive (and every sore muscle that comes with it).
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