It wasn’t my first visit to the French capital. I was born and bred in France, after all. However, it took me five visits to finally fall madly in love with Paris.
I have always liked Paris. I mean, what’s not to like? The architecture is breathtaking, the food is delicious and there is so much to see and do that, even after five visits, I still have places on my list for next time.
This visit, however, felt different. I finally experienced Paris the way I think it is meant to be experienced: slowly, without trying to tick off every attraction, and with plenty of time to simply wander.
I was travelling solo this time, so I wanted to stay somewhere central where I could safely wander around alone and still feel comfortable in the early evening. Saint-Germain-des-Prés was the answer, and it certainly didn’t disappoint.
With just two and a half days to explore Paris for the fifth time, I decided to do what I do best: wander around aimlessly and take photos. Lots and lots of photos!
And somewhere along the way, I completely fell in love with the City of Love.
Now I finally understand why Paris is one of the most loved cities in the world.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés: The Paris That Finally Won Me Over
Staying in Saint-Germain-des-Prés was one of the best decisions I made on this trip. Yes, it is expensive, but for me it was totally worth it for the experience.
Every time I stepped outside my hotel, I was surrounded by beautiful Parisian buildings, cafés spilling onto the pavements, boulangeries, little streets and those gorgeous doors I became slightly obsessed with photographing!
It was also incredibly walkable. The Luxembourg Gardens were just down the road, the Seine was an easy stroll away and I could walk to Île de la Cité, the Louvre and many of Paris’ most famous sights.
But what I loved most was simply wandering around without anywhere in particular to go. Saint-Germain felt like the Paris I had always imagined, and somehow, on my fifth visit, it was the Paris that finally won me over.
Notre-Dame: Worth Waiting Seven Years For
When I wrote my last Paris article in 2019, Notre-Dame had just been devastated by fire. I ended that post wondering how many years it would be before we could see her again.
Seven years later, I finally walked through those doors. And was it worth the wait!
The restored Notre-Dame is breathtaking. They have done a spectacular job bringing this incredible cathedral back to its former splendour, and although it has somehow become even more touristy than it was before— if that’s even possible — it is absolutely worth visiting.
I recommend going first thing in the morning. Arrive at the square about 45 minutes before opening time and spend some time wandering around Île de la Cité, photographing the cathedral and enjoying the views before the square fills with people. Then head inside and prepare to be amazed.
The interior, the stained glass, the intricate architectural details, everywhere you look there is something incredible to admire.
By the time I started climbing the towers, I’d already taken 171 photos of Notre-Dame that morning, and that didn’t even include the tower, gargoyle or chimère photos that followed. Clearly, seven years was a long time to wait!
Paris From Above
Climbing the towers of Notre-Dame and seeing the famous gargoyles and chimères up close had been on my bucket list for years, so finally making it up there was pretty special.
From the towers, Paris stretches out in every direction. You can see the Eiffel Tower, Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre, the Tour Montparnasse and seemingly endless Parisian rooftops.
You need to book ahead because tickets fill up quickly, and be prepared to climb more than 400 steps to reach the top! It’s a bit of a slog, but take your time because the views are absolutely worth it.
But my favourite part was, of course, the gargoyles and chimères themselves. The detail in the carvings is incredible, and seeing them perched above Paris, keeping watch over the city, was everything I’d hoped it would be.
I may have spent a little too long photographing the chimères. In fact, I eventually got told it was time to move along. Apparently, other people wanted to see them too. Who knew?
Getting Lost in Paris
This was possibly my favourite part of the entire trip. Getting lost in the beautiful streets of Paris.
Turning left. Turning right. Having absolutely no idea where I was going, and not really caring. Over those two and a half days, I wandered through Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Latin Quarter, Île de la Cité, Île Saint-Louis and the Marais, often without even realising I’d crossed from one neighbourhood into another.
And that’s the beauty of exploring Paris on foot. One minute you’re walking down a narrow cobbled street in the Latin Quarter, the next you’re crossing the Seine onto one of its islands, and before you know it, you’ve somehow ended up in the Marais. There was no real itinerary to follow and nowhere I particularly needed to be.
My phone camera was constantly in action because there was just so much to look at: beautiful doors, wrought-iron balconies, tiny cafés, street corners, old buildings, scooters, people, signs and all those little Parisian details that make the city so photogenic.
I’d been warned about pickpockets and told to put my phone back into my handbag after taking each photo. I tried. I really did. Eventually I gave up because I was taking it back out again approximately thirty seconds later!
I realised something on this trip that I hadn’t really appreciated on my previous visits: Paris itself is the attraction.
You don’t always need to be going somewhere. Sometimes the best thing to do in Paris is simply pick a direction and start walking.
Along the Seine at Golden Hour
My favourite time of day: golden hour.
Paris is magical when that late afternoon light hits its pale stone buildings, and if photography is your thing, this is when you’ll capture some of the prettiest photos of the city.
One evening I walked from Saint-Germain-des-Prés to Pont des Arts, past the Louvre and the Tuileries Garden, through Place de la Concorde and along the Seine towards the Eiffel Tower.
And then, somewhat crazily, I walked all the way back again!
I was absolutely knackered by the end of it, but it was worth every step.
I just couldn’t stop walking. Around every corner was another beautiful view, another building to photograph, another reason to keep going.
My feet were tired, but my heart was full.
The Icons Are Famous for a Reason
Of course, you can’t photograph Paris without photographing its icons.
The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Panthéon, Place de la Concorde, the Luxembourg Gardens, Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis. I’ve seen many of them before, some more than once, but they somehow never get old.
Maybe that’s another thing I learnt on this trip.
You don’t need to avoid the famous sights just because you’ve already seen them. Sometimes they’re famous for a very good reason.
Paris After Dark
On my second night, I decided that instead of walking all the way to the Eiffel Tower again at golden hour, I’d give my feet a break and take a Seine cruise instead.
Well… that didn’t quite go to plan!
I arrived twenty minutes early only to be one of the very last people allowed onto the boat. It was absolutely packed, and they ended up turning around 100 people away.
Needless to say, getting good photos was almost impossible.
I’d done the same cruise during the daytime on a previous visit and really enjoyed it, so I wouldn’t rule out a Seine cruise altogether. However, I wouldn’t personally choose one at golden hour during peak summer season again. It’s clearly the most popular time — and for good reason — but if photography is your priority, I’d much rather be walking along the river with my camera.
Lesson learnt!
Paris Is Best Enjoyed Slowly
Rushing through Paris is a mistake. And perhaps that’s why I never truly fell in love with it before.
On my previous visits, I was always trying to cram in as much as possible. There was always another attraction to visit, another neighbourhood to get to, another thing to tick off the list. This time, I slowed down. I wandered, stopped when I wanted to, sat outside cafés. I watched Paris go by.
There was time for a glass of Sancerre, a limoncello spritz, tartiflette, fresh baguettes and, of course, ice cream. The food in Paris really is out of this world. Thankfully, with all the walking I was doing, I was hopefully burning at least some of those calories!
Paris isn’t a city you should rush through. It’s a city you should savour.
Where I Stayed in Paris
Would I stay in Saint-Germain-des-Prés again? Absolutely. In fact, I’d struggle to convince myself to stay anywhere else now, unless my bank account has something to say about it!
For this trip, I stayed in Saint-Germain-des-Prés at Hotel Atlantis, right opposite the beautiful Saint-Sulpice church. It wasn’t the cheapest area of Paris to stay in, but travelling solo, location was particularly important to me.
I wanted somewhere central where I could walk almost everywhere during the day and still feel comfortable wandering around alone in the early evening. Saint-Germain-des-Prés was perfect for that.
The Luxembourg Gardens were just a few minutes away, the Seine and Île de la Cité were within easy walking distance, and there were endless cafés, restaurants and boulangeries right outside my door.
More importantly, staying here became part of the Paris experience itself. I loved being able to step outside my hotel with no particular plan and immediately find beautiful streets to explore.
Hotel: Hotel Atlantis
Area: Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 6th arrondissement
Best for: First-time visitors, solo travellers, walking, cafés and restaurants
Nearby: Saint-Sulpice, Luxembourg Gardens, Latin Quarter, Île de la Cité and the Seine
Downside: It’s not cheap!
So… Do I Finally Love Paris?
Five visits. That’s apparently how long it took Paris and me to work things out.
I moved to Australia twenty years ago and, in all that time, I had never seriously considered moving back to France. Then, as I wandered through the streets of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Île de la Cité, a thought suddenly popped into my head.
Hang on. I’m French. I have a French passport. I could actually live here.
For a brief moment, I had visions of myself living in a beautiful little apartment in Saint-Germain, wandering down to the boulangerie in the morning and spending my evenings drinking wine at a pavement café.
Then I asked ChatGPT how much it costs to rent an apartment in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. And just like that, my dream fizzled out!
Maybe one day. Once I win the lottery. Until then, I’ll just have to come back and visit.
Because yes, Paris. You finally got me.
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