Wallabies and kangaroos on the beach at sunrise… even after 20 years in Australia and more kangaroo sightings than I could possibly count, this was still something I had always wanted to see. It took me years to finally make it to Cape Hillsborough. But was it actually worth the trip?
We had a long weekend and, as usual for us, long weekend = exploring somewhere new. So, we flew to Mackay and spent two nights at Cape Hillsborough to finally experience the famous sunrise with the wallabies and kangaroos.
Did we enjoy it? Yes… but maybe not in the way most people expect.
The sunrise experience was lovely, but what surprised me most was realising there is so much more to Cape Hillsborough than just the beach at dawn. In the end, the wallabies became the bonus rather than the main attraction.
How to get to Cape Hillsborough
If you fly into Mackay, you’ll need to rent a car to reach Cape Hillsborough, as we did. The drive takes a little over an hour and is easy and scenic.
How long should you stay?
We stayed two nights and thought it was the perfect amount of time.
You could do one night if you’re short on time, but I enjoyed having two mornings to try for the sunrise. Our first morning was very overcast, while the second gave us much nicer conditions.
Two nights also meant we could slow down and explore more of the area rather than rushing in and out.
Where to stay?
If your goal is the sunrise experience, staying at the Cape Hillsborough Tourist Park is hard to beat.
It’s basically right there, you can wake up and walk two minutes down to the beach. Accommodations range from simple to deluxe cabins, alongside dedicated campsites for those pitching a tent or traveling in a campervan.
So… what’s the deal with the wallabies?
You might imagine that the wallabies and kangaroos simply appear every morning, perfectly on cue for tourists.
Not exactly. Originally, they came naturally to feed on mangrove seed pods washed onto the beach at low tide. Over time, word spread (helped along by social media), and visitor numbers increased.
Unfortunately, some people started feeding the animals unsuitable food to keep them around longer for photos. Which is very harmful to the animals.
Today, the sunrise experience is carefully managed. Each morning, a ranger sets up designated viewing areas and explains the rules to visitors. The animals are given appropriate food while visitors stay behind marked areas to prevent chasing, crowding or getting too close for selfies.
So yes, they come partly because food is provided. Does that make it less wild? A little. Is it still worth seeing? I think so. Would I travel all the way to Cape Hillsborough only for that experience? Probably not. But when you combine it with everything else nearby, it absolutely becomes worth the trip.
What else is there to do in Cape Hillsborough?
Go hiking
There are several short and moderate walks starting near the tourist park, leading to rainforest tracks and beautiful viewpoints over Cape Hillsborough.
Unfortunately, I’m still recovering from my ankle fracture, so hiking wasn’t really on the cards this trip (which annoyed me more than I’d like to admit!).
I did manage the Mangrove Boardwalk though, an easy and lovely walk through rainforest and mangroves.
Next time I’ll definitely come back for more.
Walk along the beach
Thankfully my ankle handled beach walking well.
At low tide you can walk surprisingly far, and because the sand is fairly firm in places it was ideal for easy walking.
Just keep an eye on tide times so you don’t end up cut off.
Explore Wedge Island
One of the fun things to do at low tide is walk across to Wedge Island.
On the way, keep an eye out for the tiny soldier crabs racing across the sand.
There’s also a rock pool area to explore once you reach the island, perfect for slowing down and taking in the scenery.
Have lunch at The Leap Hotel
About 20 minutes from Cape Hillsborough, you’ll find the historic Leap Hotel.
This beautiful old pub has been operating in its original timber building since the 1880s and is packed with character and memorabilia.
It sits near Mt Mandarana (“The Leap”), which is associated with the tragic local story of Kowaha, an Aboriginal woman connected to events that took place there in the 1860s.
Even without knowing the history, it’s a lovely place to stop for lunch.
Stay for sunset
Everyone talks about sunrise at Cape Hillsborough (understandably), but don’t make the mistake of leaving once the wallabies are done.
Sunset on the beach ended up being one of my favourite moments of the trip.
If you catch low tide in the evening, keep an eye on the sand. We noticed thousands of tiny crab tracks and little balls of sand creating incredible patterns across the beach, almost like nature’s own artwork. It was fascinating to stop and look at all the different designs they had made.
As the sun started setting, the beach became quiet and peaceful, completely different to the excitement of sunrise. The soft golden light, the low tide and all the tiny details in the sand made it feel like a totally different place. Sometimes the kangaroos do come out for sunset, but don’t expect it.
If you’re staying overnight, I’d definitely recommend coming back down to the beach in the evening. For me it ended up being one of the most underrated parts of visiting Cape Hillsborough.
Continue on to Eungella National Park
Once you’ve finished exploring Cape Hillsborough, don’t miss Eungella National Park, only about 1 hour 20 minutes away.
This ended up being one of the highlights of our trip.
There are rainforest walks, beautiful lookouts (Sky Window was our favourite), and then… the star attraction. Platypus.
Broken River is considered one of the best places in Australia to spot platypus in the wild. And… we actually saw one!! Very briefly. No photos. But I was ridiculously excited. It wasn’t our first one as we spotted one in Carnavon Gorge last year but it was still crazy exciting for me!
For the best chance of seeing them, visit early morning (sunrise to around 8am) or later afternoon through to sunset.
Simon and I already made a deal that we will come back to Eungella another time and stay a couple of nights instead of a quick day trip as we did this time.
Don’t skip Mackay
Mackay itself doesn’t get a lot of attention, but it’s worth spending a little time there.
Take a stroll through the botanic gardens, grab a coffee by the marina, or cool off in the lagoon, where you can swim without worrying about stingers or crocodiles.
Final thoughts
Did Cape Hillsborough live up to the hype? Yes, but not for the reason I expected.
The sunrise with the wallabies was special, but the beaches, rainforest, quiet walks and nearby adventures were what made the trip memorable.
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